Athens Hotels

The state-of-the-art international airport is the primary gateway to Athens for most visitors, and - for transit passengers - it even has its own museum! In addition to flight, a well-run bus system, trains and ferries from the islands and Italy are also popular methods of arrival. Piraeus is 10km southwest of central Athens, it is the busiest port in Greece with a bewildering array of departures and destinations, international and domestic. The largest of its three harbours is the Great Harbour (Megas Limin), on the western side of the Piraeus peninsula, which is the departure point for most ferry, hydrofoil and catamaran services; Zea Marina (Limin Zeas) and the picturesque Mikrolimano (Small Harbour), lie on the eastern side. Make sure you know exactly where your vessel is leaving from.

The sparkling new metro system has made getting around the centre of Athens relatively painless, and the extension of the whole network should ease the city's notorious traffic congestion. Athens also has an extensive bus and trolley (electric cable bus) network that was upgraded for the 2004 Olympics.

Athens is a busy European hub, well serviced by flights from most parts of the world. The new Eleftherios Venizelos international airport at Spata (27km/16.8mi east of Athens) has made air travel to and from Greece a far more pleasant experience than it used to be. Departure tax is included in ticket prices. You can get to the airport by taking the metro direct from Syntagma or taking the Suburban rail, which also connects to the airport. Otherwise, take the X95 airport express bus from Othonos in Syntagma, opposite the Parliament (1 hour) or bus X96 from Plateia Karaïskaki in Piraeus. Taxis can take longer than public transport if traffic is bad.

There are two main intercity bus stations: Terminal A, about 7km (4.3mi) northwest of Omonia at Kifissou 100 and Terminal B, 5km (3mi) north Omonia off Liossion. International coaches from Albania, Bulgaria and Turkey arrive and depart from Peloponnese train station.

Trains to other parts of Greece leave from Larisis station and Peloponnese station, conveniently located near each other about 1km (0.6mi) northeast of Plateia Omonias. Trains also depart Larisis for Turkey, Bulgaria, the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia and northern Europe.

Ferries, hydrofoils and catamarans bound for a bewildering array of islands depart from Athens' nearby port, Piraeus. For the latest departure information, pick up a weekly ferry schedule from the tourist office in central Athens. Services to Italy leave from Patra, three and a half hours west of Athens and Igoumenitsa, in northwestern Greece. Weekly services go to Cyprus and Israel from Piraeus. Boats to Turkey leave only from the Greek Islands. Port taxes are included in ticket prices and vary according to the destination.

Brazen drivers or motorcyclists can enter or leave the city via National Road 1, the main route north from Athens. Make sure your wits are about you and your will is in order.

Cyclists will find Athens a nightmarish proposition, with manic traffic and serious air pollution; a far better idea is to catch the train between Athens and Corinth or Thebes and start cycling from these comparatively sedate cities.

Many of Athens' ancient sites are within easy walking distance of Syntagma and many museums are close by on Vasilissis Sofias, so chances are you won't have much need for public transport. But if you do, you'll find that the city's upgraded metro system has made getting around the centre of Athens far a breeze. Journeys that used to take an hour above ground take just minutes below ground.

The blue and white Suburban Buses operate every 15 minutes from 05:00-24:00. They are inexpensive, usually comfortable and relatively fast.

Athens' taxis are relatively inexpensive - though you should always check the meter is set to the right tariff - but hailing one can be incredibly frustrating. To try this from the pavement, shout your destination as one passes. If a taxi is heading your way, it might stop even if there are passengers already inside. But don't count on it. If you absolutely must be somewhere on time, a more expensive radio taxi will save you the hailing headache.

Cable trolleybuses run from 05:00-24:00. You can buy tickets from most periptera (kiosks) and validate them on the orange machines inside the vehicles.

Driving in car-clogged Athens is an exercise in aggravation. You'll encounter confusing signs, one-way street systems, cavalier attitudes to road laws and lack of car parks. Chaos reigns.